How did Ukrainian Vyshyvanka enter the World of Fashion?
- by Ольга Туржанская
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Vyshyvanka is not just an ethnic Ukrainian outfit; it is an important part of the culture and traditions of this country. Every year, the fashion of wearing vyshyvanka becomes more popular, which applies not only to Ukraine. It is a global women's fashion trend. You may notice that many world brands use Ukrainian motifs in their clothing collections. For example, fashion houses Valentino, Gucci, Gauthier, and others.
Ukrainian brands such as Vita Kin, Yuliya Magdych, VALA, and My Sleeping Gypsy show the world how beautiful, fashionable, and luxurious a vyshyvanka is. Modern brands are mixing different embroidery techniques, such as Richelieu embroidery, cross stitch and Hardanger embroidery. Fashion houses and private designers use fresh color combinations to create modern cuts and vibrant looks. But classic white or black vyshyvanka always remains in trend. The famous Ukrainian designer Vita Kin creates amazing collections that have appealed to many foreign celebrities.
For example, Dita Von Teese has already acquired a gorgeous long vyshyvanka with blue embroidery and a tassel belt. The combination of white with blue and floral motif is one of the most popular today.
Popular magazines Vogue and The New York Times made many publications where they interviewed famous world designers. They were interested in the main question - what attracts them to Ukrainian embroidery. Many designers answered that vyshyvanka is an excellent method of inspiration because these designs contain patriotism, romance, rigor, and perseverance. Is this not true? Look, for example, at VALA Ukrainian linen blouse. Some fashion houses experiment with patterns and lines to create unique embroidery designs.
How did Ukrainian Vyshyvanka enter the World of Fashion?
The famous French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier visited Ukraine after the Orange Revolution in 2005. He was impressed by the Ukrainian people's spirit and strength and studied some of the traditions and trends of the country. Designer’s collection made a huge impression at the World Fashion Week because he presented Ukrainian patterns with the motifs of Hutsul vests and dark leather coats on the podium called Kyiv. The hall was divided into sectors that received the names of other Ukrainian towns. Critics called this show one of the best in the history of the fashion house Gaultier.
In 2008, John Galliano, director of the Dior brand, presented his own collection with Ukrainian vyshyvanka. Together with designers and stylists, they spent months studying the history of embroidery in Ukraine to be inspired to create an authentic collection. It was a special theme with gloomy notes. The faces of the models were white; the clothing style was more otherworldly and even mystical. The collection was unofficially called "frozen Ukrainian brides".
In 2009, the art director of Gucci, Frida Giannini, used geometric patterns typical of the ethnic outfits of Western Ukraine like VALA embroidered blouse. The color scheme consisted mainly of darker shades with the addition of gold, white, beige, and red. Of course, the collection was successful, especially the guests of the show have noticed the small inserts with authentic Hutsul motifs. Critics appreciated the Ukrainian ornaments that mixed with the luxury and elegance inherent in all Gucci clothes.
And these are not the only brands that have taken Ukrainian motifs into their collections. Vyshyvanka has always been in fashion; designers experimented with patterns and even fabrics. In addition to traditional linen, satin, cashmere, cotton, and even wool were also used. With their own developments, world designers managed to create a new direction in the style of Ukrainian vyshyvanka. Today, such an element of clothing is popular not only for thematic events in Ukraine but also for everyday wear around the world.